Know your way around meat in France

Differences in Meat in France and the UK

People arriving in France are often shocked to find the differences at the butchers counter and again later at the table.

The French ways are different from those at home. One of the main differences is the shorter hanging time in France. Hanging meat or ageing it allows the flavours to intensify and for the meat to tenderise, hence the marketing of 28 day (or longer) aged steak in Britain. This is usually the most expensive due to the extra costs in temperature controlled storage.

In France the normal practice is to hang for between 7 and 10 days. This results in tougher meat with less flavour. I have in the past even had to stew Faux Fillet or Sirloin steak. When asked the reason for the shorter hanging times the normal reason given is that the French eat it raw, as in steak tartare.

France

The French have developed a completely different but precise system for butchering meat, which is reflected in the myriad terms for different cuts. French cooking often emphasizes slow cooking methods to enhance flavours and textures.

Butchery and Meat Cuts

Beef

France

• Filet (Tenderloin): Known for its tenderness and lack of fat, often used in high-end dishes like Filet Mignon.
• Entrecôte (Rib Steak): A popular cut for grilling, known for its marbling and flavor.
• Côte de Boeuf (Rib of Beef): A large rib cut, often served as a roast.
• Bavette (Flank Steak): Known for its flavor, typically marinated and grilled.
• Jarret (Shank): Used in slow-cooked dishes like pot-au-feu.

UK

• Tenderloin (Filet): Similar to the French Filet, used for premium steaks.
• Rib-eye Steak: Equivalent to the Entrecôte, favored for its rich flavor.
• Standing Rib Roast: Similar to Côte de Boeuf, often roasted.
• Flank Steak: Equivalent to Bavette, usually marinated and grilled.
• Shank: Used in stews and braises, similar to the French Jarret.

Pork

France

• Filet Mignon (Tenderloin): A lean and tender cut, often used in gourmet dishes.
• Côtelette (Pork Chop): A common cut for grilling or frying.
• Échine (Neck or Shoulder): Used in slow-cooked dishes and sausages.
• Poitrine (Belly): Used for bacon (lard) and slow-roasting.
• Jarret (Shank): Used in traditional dishes like petit salé.

UK

• Pork Tenderloin: Equivalent to Filet Mignon, used for roasts and stir-fries.
• Pork Chop: Similar to Côtelette, commonly grilled or fried.
• Shoulder: Equivalent to Échine, used in slow-cooked dishes like pulled pork and for fast cooked dishes such as stir fry. Rolled Shoulder is a fabulous roasting joint and can provide luscious crackling..
• Pork Belly: Used for roasting and bacon.
• Hock: Similar to Jarret, used in stews and braises.

Lamb

France

• Carré (Rack): A premium cut, often roasted.
• Gigot (Leg): A versatile cut used for roasting or stewing.
• Épaule (Shoulder): Used in slow-cooked dishes like navarin.
• Côtelette (Chop): Popular for grilling or frying.
• Selle (Loin): Used for roasting.

UK

• Rack of Lamb: Equivalent to Carré, often roasted.
• Leg of Lamb: Similar to Gigot, used for roasting or slow-cooking.
• Shoulder of Lamb: Equivalent to Épaule, used in slow-cooked dishes.
• Lamb Chop: Similar to Côtelette, commonly grilled or fried.
• Loin of Lamb: Similar to Selle, used for roasts.

The finest chops are Cote Premier, which is t bone in the case of beef and veal. Echine are the tastiest and most tender pork chops.

Meat Quality and Hanging Practices

One of the significant differences between France and the UK regarding meat quality is the practice of hanging meat. Hanging meat is a crucial process that affects tenderness and flavour.

France

In France, meat is often hung for a shorter period compared to the UK. This practice can result in meat that is slightly tougher but with a distinctive, fresh flavour. French butchers might hang beef for about 7-10 days, focusing on preserving the natural texture and taste of the meat. The shorter hanging time is also influenced by the French preference for leaner cuts and the traditional methods of slow cooking, which tenderize the meat during preparation.

UK

In the UK, meat is typically hung for a longer period, often up to 21 days or more for beef. This extended hanging time, known as dry-aging, allows enzymes to break down muscle fibres, resulting in more tender meat with a concentrated flavour. This practice is especially common for high-quality cuts of beef, which are favoured for steaks and roasts. The longer hanging time is a key factor in the rich, robust flavours associated with British meat dishes.

Cooking Techniques

The different culinary traditions in France and the UK also influence how meat is cooked and served.

France

French cuisine emphasizes precise, often elaborate cooking techniques. Popular methods include:

• Braising: Slow-cooking meat in liquid, such as in a coq au vin or boeuf bourguignon.
• Roasting: Often used for large cuts, like a gigot d’agneau (leg of lamb).
• Sautéing: Quickly cooking thin cuts in a hot pan, such as in steak au poivre.
• Poaching: Gently cooking meat in simmering liquid, used for dishes like blanquette de veau.

UK

British cooking traditionally favours simpler, heartier methods. Popular techniques include:

• Roasting: A staple for Sunday roasts, including beef, lamb, and pork.
• Grilling: Common for steaks and chops, such as in a classic steak and kidney pie.
• Stewing: Used for dishes like beef stew or lamb hotpot.
• Frying: Often used for cuts like pork chops or lamb cutlets.

Cultural and Regional Influences

Both countries have regional variations that further influence their meat dishes and preferences.

France

French regional cuisine is highly diverse:

• Burgundy: Known for boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin.
• Provence: Famous for daube (a slow-cooked beef stew) and lamb dishes.
• Normandy: Notable for dishes like veal escalopes and pork with apples.

Conclusion

The differences in meat between France and the UK are rooted in historical, cultural, and culinary traditions. French cuisine’s emphasis on technique and precision is reflected in its detailed butchery and cooking methods, while British cuisine’s heartier, simpler approach is evident in its robust flavours and traditional practices. Understanding these differences, including the varied terminology for meat cuts and the impact of hanging practices, enriches our appreciation of both culinary traditions. Whether enjoying a tender filet mignon in France or a flavourful rib-eye steak in the UK, the distinct approaches to meat preparation offer unique and delightful gastronomic experiences.

Wherever you are meat that appears wet is best avoided and meat in a tray with liquid in the bottom is a very definite no no.