Walk or Cycle The Nantes Brest Canal.

The Nantes-Brest Canal: A Journey Through History, Nature, and Adventure

The Nantes-Brest Canal is a remarkable waterway that stretches over 360 kilometers through the picturesque landscapes of Brittany, France. This extensive guide will take you through the canal’s rich history, the best places to stay, key points of interest, and practical tips for walking and cycling the canal from end to end.

1. Introduction

The Nantes-Brest Canal is a historic waterway that traverses the heart of Brittany. It offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and outdoor adventure. Whether you’re an avid walker, a passionate cyclist, or simply a lover of French countryside, the canal provides a perfect route to explore.

2. History of the Nantes-Brest Canal

The canal was conceived in the early 19th century, primarily for military purposes. Napoleon Bonaparte ordered its construction to ensure a safe inland route for transporting troops and supplies between the Atlantic ports of Nantes and Brest, avoiding the threat of British naval blockades.

The construction began in 1804 and was completed in 1842. The canal comprises 238 locks and connects several rivers, including the Erdre, Isac, Oust, Blavet, and Aulne. Although its military importance diminished over time, the canal played a significant role in the economic development of the region, facilitating the transport of goods and resources.

In the 20th century, with the advent of rail and road transport, the canal’s commercial use declined. Today, it serves primarily as a recreational route, attracting walkers, cyclists, and boating enthusiasts.

3. Planning Your Trip

Best Time to Visit

The best time to walk or cycle the Nantes-Brest Canal is between late spring and early autumn (May to September). During this period, the weather is generally mild and pleasant, and the countryside is in full bloom.

Route Planning

The canal can be divided into several segments, each offering unique landscapes and attractions. Here’s a suggested itinerary:

1. Nantes to Redon: Approx. 100 km
2. Redon to Josselin: Approx. 60 km
3. Josselin to Pontivy: Approx. 45 km
4. Pontivy to Carhaix: Approx. 60 km
5. Carhaix to Châteaulin: Approx. 45 km
6. Châteaulin to Brest: Approx. 50 km

Equipment and Gear

• For Walkers: Comfortable walking shoes, weather-appropriate clothing, a backpack, water bottle, snacks, a map or GPS device, and basic first aid supplies.
• For Cyclists: A well-maintained bicycle (preferably a hybrid or touring bike), helmet, repair kit, panniers or saddlebags, water bottle, snacks, and a map or GPS device.

4. Walking and Cycling the Canal

Walking and cycling the Nantes-Brest Canal offer different experiences. Here’s what you can expect from each mode of travel.

Walking the Canal

Walking the canal is a leisurely way to explore its beauty. The well-maintained towpaths provide an easy and scenic route, perfect for enjoying the natural surroundings and historic sites at a relaxed pace. On average, walking the entire length of the canal takes about 12-15 days, depending on your pace and the time spent exploring each stop.

Cycling the Canal

Cycling is a faster option, allowing you to cover more ground each day. The canal’s towpaths are generally flat and smooth, making for an easy ride suitable for all fitness levels. Cycling the entire canal typically takes 5-7 days. It’s a great way to experience the variety of landscapes and quickly access more distant points of interest.

5. Points of Interest Along the Canal

The Nantes-Brest Canal is dotted with charming villages, historic landmarks, and natural beauty. Here are some key points of interest to include in your journey:

Nantes

Start your journey in Nantes, a vibrant city with a rich maritime history. Key attractions include the Château des Ducs de Bretagne, the historic district of Bouffay, and the modern art installations on the Île de Nantes.

Blain

Blain is home to the impressive Château de la Groulais, a medieval fortress with a fascinating history. The town also offers charming cafes and a peaceful ambiance.

Redon

Redon, known as the “Venice of the West,” is a picturesque town at the confluence of the Vilaine River and the canal. Explore its historic abbey and vibrant market.

Josselin

Josselin is a highlight of the canal route, featuring the stunning Château de Josselin, a fairytale castle overlooking the Oust River. The town’s medieval streets and half-timbered houses are also worth exploring.

Pontivy

Pontivy, formerly known as Napoleonville, boasts a blend of medieval and Napoleonic architecture. Key sites include the Château des Rohan and the picturesque old town.

Rohan

Rohan is a small village with a beautiful church and a quiet, rural charm. It’s an excellent place to take a break and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

Carhaix

Carhaix, in the heart of Brittany, is known for its annual music festival, Les Vieilles Charrues. The town also has several ancient Roman sites and a vibrant local culture.

Châteaulin

Châteaulin is located along the Aulne River and offers lovely riverside walks and a bustling market. The town is a gateway to the beautiful Armorique Regional Natural Park.

Brest

End your journey in Brest, a historic port city with strong naval traditions. Visit the National Maritime Museum, the Tanguy Tower, and the beautiful harbor.

6. Accommodation Options

The Nantes-Brest Canal offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets.

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Hotels and Bed & Breakfasts

• Nantes: Numerous hotels ranging from luxury to budget options. Recommended: Radisson Blu Hotel, Hôtel La Pérouse.
• Redon: Quaint bed & breakfasts and small hotels. Recommended: Queen Serenity Hotel, Hôtel Asther.
• Josselin: Charming guesthouses and boutique hotels. Recommended: Hôtel-Restaurant du Château, La Maison de Ville.
• Pontivy: A mix of modern hotels and historic inns. Recommended: Hôtel de l’Europe, Ibis Pontivy.
• Carhaix: Local bed & breakfasts and small hotels. Recommended: Noz Vad Hotel, La Petite Ferme Chambres d’Hôtes.
• Châteaulin: Cozy guesthouses and inns. Recommended: Logis Hôtel le Chrismas, Auberge du Vieux Port.
• Brest: Wide range of hotels. Recommended: Hôtel Oceania, Hôtel Le Continental.

Campsites

For those who prefer outdoor accommodations, there are numerous campsites along the canal. Most campsites offer basic facilities such as showers, toilets, and sometimes even small shops or cafes.

• Camping du Lac (Blain)
• Camping des Cerisiers (Josselin)
• Camping Municipal de Pontivy
• Camping de la Vallee de l’Hyères (Carhaix)
• Camping de Rodaven (Châteaulin)

Gîtes and Holiday Rentals

Gîtes (self-catering holiday homes) are popular in Brittany and offer a home-away-from-home experience. They are ideal for families or groups looking for more space and the option to cook their meals.

• Gîtes de France: A network of quality-assured gîtes across the region.
• Airbnb: Numerous listings along the canal route.
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7. Eateries and Shops

The Nantes-Brest Canal is dotted with delightful eateries and shops, offering a taste of Brittany’s rich culinary heritage.

Nantes

• La Cigale: A historic brasserie with an Art Nouveau interior.
• Le Bouchon: A cozy bistro offering traditional French cuisine.
• Talensac Market: A bustling market with local produce, cheeses, and delicacies.

Blain

• Crêperie La Sarrazine: A local favorite for savory and sweet crêpes.
• Boulangerie Patisserie Gicquello: Delicious pastries and baked goods.

Redon

• Le Ponton: A riverside restaurant with a focus on seafood.
• La Goulue: A charming restaurant offering traditional Breton dishes.

Josselin

• La Table d’O: A fine dining restaurant in a beautiful setting.
• Le Guethenoc: A friendly spot for local cuisine and crêpes.

Pontivy

• La Scala: An Italian restaurant popular with locals.
• Crêperie Le Rohan: A cozy crêperie in the heart of town.

Carhaix

• Ty Coz: A restaurant known for its warm atmosphere and delicious food.
• Crêperie du Pont Neuf: Excellent crêpes and galettes.

Châteaulin

• L’Entrecôte: A popular spot for steak and other French classics.
• Crêperie Les Capucins: A local favorite for crêpes.

Brest

• Le Crabe Marteau: Famous for its seafood, particularly crab.
• La Maison de l’Océan: A fine dining restaurant with a focus on seafood.
• Marché de Saint-Louis: A vibrant market with fresh produce, cheeses, and more.

8. Which End to Start: Nantes or Brest?

Both Nantes and Brest offer compelling reasons to start or end your journey. Here are some considerations to help you decide:

Starting in Nantes

• Accessibility: Nantes is well-connected by train and air, making it an easy starting point for international travelers.
• Cultural Attractions: Beginning your journey in Nantes allows you to explore its rich cultural heritage and vibrant city life before heading into the quieter countryside.
• Gradual Transition: Starting in a bustling city and moving towards the more rural and serene areas can be a rewarding experience.

Starting in Brest

• Scenic Beauty: Brest offers stunning coastal views and a strong maritime heritage, providing a beautiful start to your journey.
• Historical Significance: Brest’s naval history and its role in the canal’s creation offer a unique perspective.
• Challenging Terrain: Starting in Brest means you will encounter the canal’s more challenging sections early in your trip, with the journey becoming progressively easier.

Ultimately, the choice depends on your personal preferences and logistical considerations. Both starting points offer unique experiences and beautiful landscapes.

9. Getting Back from the Other End

After completing the Nantes-Brest Canal, you will need to arrange transportation back to your starting point or onward to your next destination.

From Brest to Nantes

• Train: Direct trains connect Brest and Nantes, with a journey time of approximately 3-4 hours. The French national railway company, SNCF, operates these services.
• Bus: Long-distance buses also operate between Brest and Nantes, though the journey time is longer (about 5-6 hours).
• Car Rental: Renting a car for the return journey offers flexibility and the option to explore more of the region.
• Bicycle Transport: If you are cycling, you can usually take your bike on trains, but it’s advisable to check specific bike transport policies and make reservations in advance.

From Nantes to Brest

• Train: Similar to the reverse route, direct trains connect Nantes and Brest.
• Bus: Long-distance bus services are available.
• Car Rental: Renting a car for a one-way trip is another option.

10. Wildlife Along the Nantes-Brest Canal

The Nantes-Brest Canal offers a rich and diverse array of wildlife due to its varied habitats, including wetlands, forests, meadows, and agricultural land. Whether you’re walking, cycling, or boating, you can expect to encounter a range of animal and plant species that add to the charm and beauty of this historic waterway.

Birds

Birdwatchers will be delighted by the variety of bird species along the canal. Some common birds you might see include:

1. Herons: Particularly the Grey Heron, which is often seen standing still in the water, waiting to catch fish.
2. Kingfishers: These brightly colored birds are often spotted near clear, slow-moving water where they hunt for fish.
3. Mallards: Common ducks that can be seen in the water and along the banks.
4. Swans: Mute Swans are a common sight on the canal, often gliding gracefully on the water.
5. Egrets: Little Egrets with their distinctive white plumage are also frequently seen.
6. Coots and Moorhens: These waterfowl are often seen swimming or foraging near the water’s edge.
7. Buzzards and Kestrels: Birds of prey that can be seen soaring above the countryside, hunting for small mammals.

Mammals

While birds are the most easily spotted wildlife, the canal also supports various mammals:

1. Otters: Although elusive, European Otters are sometimes seen along quieter stretches of the canal, particularly at dawn or dusk.
2. Beavers: In recent years, beavers have been reintroduced to some parts of Brittany, and you might spot evidence of their activity, such as gnawed tree trunks or lodges.
3. Bats: Several species of bats can be seen at dusk, feeding on insects over the water.
4. Deer: Roe Deer are common in the forests and fields adjacent to the canal.
5. Hedgehogs: These small, nocturnal mammals may be seen in gardens and hedgerows along the canal.

Reptiles and Amphibians

The canal’s wetlands and surrounding areas provide ideal habitats for various reptiles and amphibians:

1. Frogs and Toads: Common frogs and toads are often heard croaking near ponds and marshy areas. Some frogs in France are poisonous to touch.
2. Newts: The Smooth Newt and Palmate Newt can be found in and around the water.
3. Grass Snakes: These non-venomous snakes are sometimes seen swimming in the water or basking on the banks.

Fish

The canal’s waters are home to a variety of fish species, making it popular with anglers:

1. Pike: A predatory fish that is often targeted by anglers.
2. Perch: Another common fish species in the canal.
3. Carp: Large carp can be found in the slower-moving sections of the canal.
4. Roach and Bream: These smaller fish are abundant and a key part of the canal’s ecosystem.

Insects and Invertebrates

The diverse habitats along the canal support numerous insects and other invertebrates:

1. Dragonflies and Damselflies: These brightly colored insects are commonly seen hovering near the water.
2. Butterflies: Various species, including the Painted Lady and Red Admiral, and Swallowtail can be seen in meadows gardens and alongside the canal..
3. Bees and Wasps and Hornets are active in the warmer months.
4. Molluscs: Snails and slugs can be found in moist areas along the canal and freshwater mussels inhabit the calmer stretches.

Flora

The flora along the Nantes-Brest Canal is equally diverse, contributing to the rich biodiversity of the region:

1. Aquatic Plants: Water lilies, reeds, and rushes are common in and around the canal.
2. Wildflowers: The towpaths and adjacent fields are often adorned with wildflowers such as poppies, daisies, and buttercups.
3. Trees and Shrubs: Oak, beech, and willow trees line much of the canal, providing habitat for many bird and insect species.

Conservation and Respect for Wildlife

While enjoying the wildlife along the Nantes-Brest Canal, it’s important to respect the natural environment:

1. Stay on Designated Paths: Avoid disturbing wildlife by staying on the marked trails and paths.
2. Observe Quietly: Use binoculars for a closer look and avoid making loud noises that can scare away animals.
3. Do Not Litter: Keep the canal clean by disposing of waste properly and following Leave No Trace principles.
4. Respect Breeding Seasons: Be mindful of wildlife breeding seasons and give animals extra space during these times.

In conclusion, the Nantes-Brest Canal offers a fantastic opportunity to experience the rich biodiversity of Brittany. Whether you’re a seasoned naturalist or a casual observer, the canal’s wildlife will undoubtedly enhance your journey.

11. Conclusion

Walking or cycling the Nantes-Brest Canal is a journey through history, nature, and charming Breton culture. From the bustling streets of Nantes to the historic port of Brest, the canal offers an unforgettable adventure for outdoor enthusiasts and history buffs alike.

Whether you choose to walk or cycle, each day will bring new discoveries, from medieval castles and picturesque villages to serene natural landscapes. With ample accommodation options, delightful eateries, and rich cultural experiences, the Nantes-Brest Canal promises a rewarding and enriching journey.